Opus

I had the pleasure of eating at Opus last night as part of the Denver Adventurous Eaters Club. Chef Michael Long created a four course menu showcasing the often ignored category of offal. All 54 RSVP's for our group arrived promptly at 7pm, which totally overwhelmed the kitchen (but I won't fault the restaurant for that). We started with three homemade breads (fennel sourdough, focaccia, and spicy southwestern cornbread) which were all delicious.

The first course was a hot pho bowl fill with a rich broth, sea urchin, lotus root, chili pepper noodles, and tempura tripe. I have had sea urchin previously-- didn't like it then, and didn't like it now, but at least I tried. The tempura tripe was delicious (but then, what isn't when it is breaded and fried). The suggested rice wine pairing complemented the soup perfectly, and the garnishes of cilantro, lime, basil, and chili pepper were beautifully served inside the urchin shell.

The optional additional started course was a foie gras terrine on brioche with white asparagus, balsamic vinegar, and cranberry sauce. This was by far my favorite course, and it's not just because foie gras is the most disgustingly delicious culinary concoction ever invented (I know that sounds snobby, but it's true). The combination of the excessively rich and fatty foie was perfectly foiled by the acid in both the cranberry and balsamic. The asparagus was light, and tender.

For our main Chef Michael pan seared a whole chunk of sweetbreads with oxtail jus, mustard-crusted lamb kidneys, mashed potatoes (forgettable), carrot, red cabbage,and an interesting root vegetable called salsify. The oxtail jus completely made the dish (I could have done with a glass of it on the side), the sweetbreads were crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside. Lamb kidney's....just not my thing, but others at my table at them readily. Again the chef balanced the rich and fatty meats with delicious acidity. My only complaint is that with so much rich food, I found myself getting a little overwhelmed early on.

Dessert included no offal (Chef Michael couldn't find pig ears), but was adventurous nonetheless. Homemade peanut butter spring roll, dipped in strawberry sauce with additional berry sauces and jelly's on the side--a really fun take on class PB&J.

Although the kitchen was overwhelmed and a therefore a little slow, the wait staff was extremely friendly and attentive.

I know this is not the everyday meal at Opus, but Chef Michael Long's skill with offal makes me eager to return and sample the everyday fare. The atmosphere is beautiful complete with white table clothes, and arm chairs (yay). It was an extremely enjoyable and well executed evening. I can't wait to come back.